Oil Change Procedures 2
Posted by: Steve D on 2001-11-16 at 13:45:28
(posted from: Host: user99.net065.nj.sprint-hsd.net IP: 207.14.190.99)
Message:

This is the way I do it using the traditional sump drain plug removal technique. Everything should be the same except you would pump the oil out rather than draining it.

Oil Change on My BMW 540i

Tools:
1. 17mm wrench or socket
2. 36mm wrench or socket
3. screwdriver
4. torque wrench

Supplies:
1. 9 quarts of BMW 5W-40 synthetic oil - 8 for re-fill and one spare for topping up.
2. New oil filter element.
3. New oil plug gasket.
4. New filter cap "O" ring seal.

Note: The replacement oil filter I bought from my dealer came with the element, gasket and "O" ring all for $10. Non OEM oil filters are PRO LINE #PPL-37212 -$6.99 and PUROLATOR #A-37212 - $8.99, but I don't know if they come with the O-ring and drain plug gasket.

Make sure the oil is good and warm before draining - about 5miles or so of driving.
Raise the car to get access to the drain plug - I use wooden ramps.
Open the oil filler cap - this lets the oil drain faster.
Under the car open the flap in the shroud with a screwdriver (1/4 turn captive fastener), and remove the cover - this gives access to the oil drain plug.
Position a drain container that can easily hold at least 8 quarts under the drain plug.
Using a standard 17mm socket or wrench remove the drain plug and let the oil drain for a few minutes. (be careful the oil is hot)
While it is draining, open the oil filter canister cap with a 36mm socket or wrench.
As you unscrew the cap air will enter with a slight hiss and about another quart of oil will drain into the bucket.
Withdraw the filter element and cap and with a rag pull the element off the cap. The center hole of the element clips into the cap and it will snap out.
Wipe the cap clean and using a small screwdriver pry the "O" ring seal off the threads of the cap.
Work a new "O" ring onto the cap threads and seat it in its groove.
Snap a new filter element into the cap making sure it fully seats and snaps into place.





When all the oil has all drained place a new metal gasket on the drain plug and tighten. I am sure there is a torque spec. for this but I have been changing oil for 25 years and never had a leak by snugging it up by hand as long as a new gasket is used. Just don't tighten it enough to crush the gasket.
Replace the plastic cover on the shroud.
I believe that most engine wear occurs on cold start-up, especially when an oil change is done as the filter is empty and it has to fill before oil pressure is built up. Therefore I filled the oil filter container with new oil. It drains down to the engine oil pan slowly and so before a significant amount drained I placed the element in the canister and quickly screwed the cap on and hand tightened it.
Tighten the cap with a torque wrench to 25 N-m (18.5 lb-ft). I think this is important as the torque value is stamped right on the cover. The purpose is so as not to crush the "O" ring seal. If you don't have a torque wrench or 36mm socket you can tighten by hand or with a wrench but this will require "feel". My guess is that it is like a canister oil filter where you snug it down good and then turn it an additional 1/4 turn or so.
Add the rest of the quart of oil in the filler and seven more quarts.
Close the oil filler cap and start the engine. The oil pressure warning light went out just about as fast as a normal cold start.
Run the engine for a few minutes and check for leaks.
Turn the engine off and check the oil dipstick after allowing about 5 minutes for all the oil to drain back. Top up if needed.

Steve D