Clutch Delay Valve Removal
Removing the CDV is not hard takes about 30 minutes with 3 people.
Required tools and parts
1. Jack up the car or use ramps to get access to CDV on the bottom of car. Open and remove driver side air cleaner assembly start by removing weather stripping
2. Remove retaining clip
3. Unplug hood light switch
4. Disconnect duct and remove vent lid then remove assembly to expose master cylinder.
5. Top off mastercylinder. CAUTION brake fluid will eat paint. NOTE: Make sure you fluid level never drops below hose that feeds clutch, or else you have a lot of bleeding ahead of you.
6. Locate the CDV bolted onto the transmission bell housing. Remove CDV. Attach stopper to end of pipe to keep air and fluid from dumping out.
7. Drill out the CDV if you want us a 1/4 in drill bit, be careful not to hit the threads. We used a drill press. Drill far enough till you feel the like the drill hits a pocket. This is the check valve assembly. Use a small screw driver to pull out the spring and valve. Wash out thoroughly then dry.
8. Reinstall the CDV.
9. Bleed the system by attaching vinyl tubing to bleeding
screw/nipple. Keep the wrench on the bleeding screw while person 2 from
top gets ready to step on the clutch. Person 3 should keep an eye on
master cylinder and have a bottle of DOT 4 handy, keeping fluid to its
highest level. Release
screw and step on clutch. Close screw and lift pedal up and do again
till no bubbles in fluid.
Addendum by: David Zeckhausen on 2002-08-27 at 19:52:30
These do not use tapered threads. Rather, they use a tapered seat. And if you damage the tapered seat inside the valve, then you will have a leak that may only be apparent under pressure. At my clinics, I pressure bleed and test each CDV to 25 psi and that's how I discovered that CDVs modified as described above were leaking.
The alternative method I developed is to use a drill press and a jig to slightly enlarge the OTHER end of the CDV (the male end) but only drill down to the pocket where you feel some sudden resistance. Then flip it over and place in a bench vise, then use a skinny center punch and insert it just past the tapered seat at a steep angle so you can tap the "guts" loose. Keep going around about 90 degrees at a time, tapping until the guts are all bunched up and you can't see through it any more. Then use the punch to push the guts out the enlarged opening. Use compressed air to dislodge any remaining bits and pieces and VERY CAREFULLY inspect it to be sure there aren't any pieces of spring left behind. You don't want debris floating around your hydraulic system.
Or, you can simply
send it to me. I've done well over 100 of these, so I'm pretty good at it by